Paraty, Ilha Grande and Rio – the last leg

Relaxing on Isla Grande, a small island just off Rio in Brazil meant the arduous task of chilling in a hammock as well as exploring the island footpaths through the jungle, finding both monkeys, dolphins and an amazing variety of beautiful birds.                      

Previously serving as a leper’s colony and a prison due to it’s isolation, and with no motor vehicles this was a wonderful jungle-clad and preserved green island to retreat on and around.

To the south of Rio, on the Costa Verde we also stopped at one of Brazil’s most appealing and well preserved historical colonial towns – Paraty – set amidst secluded beaches and jungled mountains the irregular cobblestone streets are closed to motor vehicles         making it ideal for strolling around and enjoying the centuries-old architecture.

           Boat trips around the many secluded beaches and islands were much enjoyed

And then there was Rio –  hard to believe I was finally at this amazing iconic City

Sugar Loaf Mountain and    Christ the Redeemer    and of course Copacabama beach – what a wonderful city

   

and sad goodbyes to a wonderful group of co-travellers and our guide Yasmina…   who somehow managed to keep us all together and in the right place at the right time through the three countries visited, sometimes using up to six different methods of local transport in one day.

A wonderful wonderful trip – absolutely loved it – already planning the next one!

Rio favelas

Standing looking down on the sparkling city and beaches of Rio de Janeiro at last, one is straight away struck by the contrasting neighbourhoods co-existing reluctantly side by side, each needing the other.

The Sheraton Hotel for instance nestles into the hill right next to one of the many infamous favelas, as does a prestigious golf club.  Due to the narrow streets and the high density of the population,the predominant form of transport is by motorcycle/motortaxi and foot in the favelas.
The neighbourhoods have grown up over the years since slavery were abolished when the remaining slaves then had no place to go and started living high up on these undesirable steep slopes outside the city centre and are known as favelas  (although often erroneously referred to as slums) and so named from  the plants growing on these hillside areas.

They have been built up in a verticularisation fashion as space became sparcer, with one selling his roof top on to another, and another, to build on the next layer. So they are built on up, badly, with what they have – often a topply and chaotic affair.

20% of the Brazilian poulation live in favelas, and mainly without sewerage, which eventually finds its way down into the sea, once it rains.

There is some electricity and a few peeps through open doors and the number of sky dishes gave clues to a more reasonable standard of living for some.
Run by drug gangs, there is a certain order and little crime within the favelas themselves.
Perceived by the outside world to be full of drug dealers, drug takers, crime and  criminals, most inhabitants actually do have jobs and only 1% are involved in drug dealing.
However when the government tried a clean up it was police corruption that made this fail, and in the area we visited the only crime in revent years was when a policeman tried to rob a bank.

Rubbish is collected from designated points twice daily, though as a result of dead bodies appearing from time to time in the past, collection workers are hard to find.
Down in the little passageways it is damp, humid and smells somewhat unpleasant.  Tuberculosis has been a big problem in the past.

There are schools and a hospital but finding staff for them can be a problem.
Funds from the the tour make up 40% of the funding for a education foundation set up for children between 4 and 12 wanting to take advantage of extra opportunities.
The tour was not voyeuristic and it was most illuminating to gain a better understanding of Brazilian society away from the beach culture prevailing in this city.  It changes one’s perception of poverty and violence ridden slums to that of generally hard working people doing their best to live within the parameters given.
Very pleased to have visited Rocina and Vila Canoas favelas and become more informed, despite advice not to from well meaning but seemingly prejuduced Brazilians and to see a more balanced picture of an everyday struggle to survive crammed up on the outskirts of a vibrant city.  There is so much more than the drugs, shootings, crime and poverty  focused on by the media. it is not all bad, the favela dwellers are human too.

Moving on

 

Karla arranged a small goodbye evening and it was sad to leave some of the lovely and kind people I got to know in Araguari, who all went out of their way for me one way or another… especially my hosts Castro and Layla… 
but it’s also great to be staying with Junior and Katianne in Campo Grande now (yes, another 17 hour coach journey)
where I can birdwatch from their veranda and listen to the parquets sqabbling. So restful.
We visited his parents one night, they have bought a small holding from the government who bought out an old farm and divided it off.  Its in the back of beyond  and took half an hour on very rough track through estancias (ranches), small farms, fields of various livestock and crops amidst wonderful and far reaching views. Totally cut off and so peaceful. 

Once the chickens had all been herded into their respective night-time pens they showed me all the crops they are growing, both for own use making them largely self-sufficient and also to sell on. 
Although the living accommodation is small the huge roof which encompasses a sort of all-round veranda,  and open-air living areas with hammocks, sofa, tv etc. Great ambience. 
Tucked into a brilliant meal full of all local produce listening to the night and being bitten by flying ants and mozzies.  Love the way the thick slabs if bbq’d steak are served in plastic washing up bowls then picked over, hacked into bits and chosen or chucked back pending preferences. The only thing I miss out here is a decent mug of PG Tips.

Have enjoyed pottering round Campo Grande which is the capital city of Motto Grosse do Sul; the parks are most attractive                             and many even have fitness áreas, which are actually used.
Thought we were going for a Mac Donalds as entered a ‘drive-in’ only to discover we were on a drive-in Pharmacy.You can also call them by phone and they do home delivery which is good, especially for the elderly, disabled and those with youngsters.

After Paraguayan soup for breakfast we left at 4 am yesterday for the 4 hour drive to one of the country’s top eco-tourism spots – Bonito (which means beautiful in Portuguese) where there are amazing caves and waterfalls in conservation areas.  With the temperature nudging 40 degrees you swim amidst huge fish and picnic amongst random emus and araras.     (excuse formatting, haven´t quite got to grips with computer I´m borrowing at present!)

I enjoyed as much, the wild Pantanal countryside and far reaching red soiled vistas on the way; speckled with the white Brahman cattle, coconut palms, grazing emus and the various unidentifed birds, parrots, eagles or toucan in flight.

Treat of the week was a pamper – at a somewhat more affordable price than the UK.   

Although if having a bikini wax in Brazil, its relevant to keep in mind the infamous size of bikinis here!

Anyhow, it´s swimming with mangoes right now    and I´m off to Sao Paulo then Buenos Aires tomorrow for last leg of trip (Argentina-Uruguay-Rio de Janiero-home) so that´s all for now.

Coffee beans

Adriane fixed for she and I to be shown around a nearby coffee company which was fascinating.
Once the coffee beans have been dried they are graded for colour and size.

The best coffees are exported.  They are sent out by freight in large sacks or packaged accordingly.

It was fascinating to watch the taster preparing and tasting the desired strength and flavours.

The coffee was so fresh, smooth and aromatic.  I shall be choosing more carefully in the future.  And it all comes from this…

Seems so simple, yet a pretty exact and complex process.

 

Rio Quente Hot Park

Murilo works in the huge city of  Hot Park, inside Rio Quente Resorts, two hours from anywhere in the middle of the cerrado, which in itself makes it incongruous.

Murilo, Danielly and I had a hugely wet day enjoying various themes in the gloriously (almost too) warm natural water that comes from a Spring and down the River Quente at the mountain base.

Over the years this has become a huge enterprise and really gives a great experience.  Although its a water theme park  as such, it is well designed and surprisingly not too tacky.

The Brazilians flock here to enjoy the (imported) white sand beach, with a wave machine which really made it great fun.

It is all very well designed from the topical surroundings,

holiday atmosphere,  music and entertainment, water rides, bird park, diving or catching big fish and of course to all the additional extras you think you won’t buy but do make it a great day.

You wander from place to place in your (very skimpy) swim gear. As well as the water rides there’s a pool for zumba classes,  bars and food available actually in the pools themslves which stay open into the night with ambiant lighting and poolside bands. At times it is just too hot to stay in and wallow around in. Strange to eat and drink in what feels like a big communal bath, but fun.

But the best bit for me was the high power showers you could stand under for ages as the lovely warm water pounded on your back. Heavenly!
Check it out at http://www.hotpark.com or http://www.rioquenteresorts.com

Lovely scenery driving back…

Along the way…

Travelling solo has mixed blessings.  It seems easier to become absorbed by situations and others,  who seem to want to take you under their wing, into their lives and look after you very readily.  This has been much enjoyed and appreciated. To date the people I have met could not have been kinder, and I have been lucky enough to have been ferried around, taken to places of interest and intreague and welcomed,  almost royally, in people’s homes and lives.
On the other hand I must confess to slight nervousness and trepidation at times when walking around alone, even in the town suburbs, especially bearing in mind there is a gun culture here.  However sensibility prevails and I keep middle of road where possible and never go out at night.
Another thing that keeps me off the more interesting looking streets are the numerous dogs that abound.  They all seen to know their business and be on a mission somewhere,  but equally they seem to have their territories…and I didn’t have a rabies jab.  It occurred to me yesterday that I hadn’t yet seen anybody actually walking their dog- they are either let loose to walk themselves, or in many a case, are kept penned up as guard dogs for the home.
It has been delightful not have met a single foreigner or other tourist in the month I have been here to date. 
One of the advantages of living is a tourist free area with the locals is getting locals prices, from Gym membership to bread rolls at the corner shop.   Brazil may be the most expensive South American country to live in, but it’s still cheaper than England!
I agree with the Brazilians who feel that the only press Brazil has, is a bad press.  The world either sees them as a load of primal indian savages and monkeys, or pretty near naked party exhibitionists (Rio Carnival). Before coming here I only knew Brazil for serious crime, extreme poverty, drugs, prostitution,  slums and corruption.   What there is no exposure on/publicity for, is the beautiful towns and countryside as well as the kind generous natures of the inhabitants, certainly all without exception that I have met to date at least. I doubt the average Brit would have extended the hospitality I have been shown here.  It is especially poignant when you bear in mind we have in general larger disposable incomes and greater affluence,  yet they appear to have greater generosity and heart, with less as such to give.  Makes one feel rather shameful.
However I’ve become used to the ways of life here and look forward to my daily rice with brown beans,  the strong black coffee one takes small glasses of and even the signature tunes of the daily tv soaps.
I now take for granted the parquets that squabble and nest in the eaves above my room and no longer rush to grab my camera.
What I haven’t come to terms with however is the occasional nocturnal cockroach visit and the fact they use cold rather than hot water to wash your hair at the Hairdressers!